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A Complete Analysis of Ceramic Types and Structures: From Materials to Functions, Understanding the Uniqueness of Each Type of Ceramic
When you think of ceramics, you might think of tableware in your home, antique porcelain in a museum, or art pieces on a decorative shelf. However, few people realize that ceramics isn't just a single category, but rather a vast family. From the clay to the finished product, differences in material selection, firing techniques, and functional positioning create a diverse range of ceramic types. Today, we'll break down the logic of ceramic classification from three core dimensions: material structure, process structure, and functional structure, helping you understand the origins and uses of different ceramics.
1. Material Structure: Ceramics' "Innate Genes" Determine Basic Properties
Ceramics' core raw material is clay, but variations in clay composition and firing temperature create distinct "material bases." This is the "first dimension" of ceramic classification, directly affecting density, hardness, and water absorption.
1. Pottery: The most "primitive" ceramic, breathable yet rugged Core ingredients:
Made from kaolin and clay, containing a high concentration of impurities (such as iron oxide), fired at relatively low temperatures (600-1200°C).
Material Characteristics: The body is porous, with pronounced pores, high water absorption (typically >10%), and produces a dull sound when struck. The surface is often unglazed or glazed at a low temperature, with a color palette of earthy yellow or reddish-brown.
2. Porcelain: A refined, dense "advanced version" that balances practicality and beauty.
Core ingredients: Made from kaolin and porcelain stone, it's low in impurities and fired at high temperatures (1200-1400°C), resulting in a fully sintered body.
Material Characteristics: The body is dense and hard, with extremely low water absorption (typically <0.5%), resulting in a crisp, resonant sound when struck. The surface is often glazed with high-temperature glaze, resulting in a smooth, delicate texture and rich colors.
Common Types:
Celadon: The glaze contains iron oxide, resulting in a bluish-green color after firing, such as Yue Kiln celadon and Longquan celadon (classic shapes include celadon bowls and vases).
White Porcelain: The raw materials are highly purified, resulting in a pure white glaze, such as Dehua white porcelain ("Chinese white") and Jingdezhen white porcelain (suitable for painting, such as the base of blue and white porcelain). Colored porcelain: Painted porcelain is white porcelain with a painted base. Based on the technique used, it is categorized into underglaze colors (blue and white, multicolored underglaze), in-glaze colors, and overglaze colors (famille rose, enamel colors), such as blue and white porcelain plates and famille rose vases.
Suitable for: Everyday tableware (bowls, plates), tea sets (white porcelain cups, blue and white porcelain pots), and collectible art (antique porcelain, hand-painted porcelain). Because it is dense and non-absorbent, it is easy to clean and suitable for frequent use.
Craftsmanship: From "Non-Glazed" to "Painted," Craftsmanship Determines Beauty and Safety
If the material is the "skin" of ceramics, then the craftsmanship is the "makeup"—different glazing and painting techniques not only affect appearance but also directly impact safety and durability.
1. Classification by "Glazing Condition": Glaze is the ceramic's "protective coat."
Unglazed ceramics: The surface is unglazed, leaving the base exposed, such as purple clay pottery, red clay flower pots, and stoneware bowls.
Features: Breathable and rustic, but easily absorbs stains and is difficult to clean, requiring regular drying (for example, purple clay tea sets need to be air-dried after use).
Glazed ceramics: The surface is glazed and classified by the location of the glaze layer:
Fully glazed ceramics: Glazed both inside and outside (such as everyday white porcelain bowls and blue and white porcelain plates), stain-resistant and easy to clean, suitable for food contact.
Semi-glazed ceramics: Glazed only on the outside or bottom (such as some vases and stoneware ornaments). The unglazed bottom increases friction (prevents tipping), but should be protected from water (susceptible to moisture absorption).
2. By "Painting Technique": Safety is the core consideration (key!)
This section directly relates to safety in daily use, especially distinguishing between "underglaze," "in-glaze," and "overglaze" (a detailed comparison has been provided previously; the key differences are simplified here):
Underglaze: The pigment is completely encapsulated beneath the glaze layer, making it safe and free of heavy metal leaching. Examples include blue-and-white porcelain and underglaze multicolored tableware, making it suitable for long-term food contact.
In-glaze: The pigment is embedded within the glaze layer, virtually invisible, offering increased safety and brighter colors than underglaze. Examples include modern colored tableware and decorative plates.
Overglaze: The pigment is on the surface of the glaze, easily abraded and potentially leaching heavy metals. It is suitable only for purely decorative purposes (such as famille rose ornaments and gilded vases) and is not suitable for tableware.
Buying Tips: Choose the right item based on your needs to avoid pitfalls.
For daily use (tableware, tea sets): Prioritize "porcelain (underglaze/inglaze)" or "stoneware." Check for food-grade certification (such as GB 4806.4). Avoid overglaze or unlabeled products.
For decorative purposes (ornaments, murals): Choose "overglaze porcelain," "stoneware," or "Tang Sancai" by style. Focus on matching the shape with your home's style, and don't worry about food grade.
For collectors (antique porcelain, art porcelain): Pay attention to the "age/artist, condition, and certification." Beginners are recommended to start with "modern and contemporary art porcelain" to avoid blindly purchasing antique porcelain (which can easily lead to imitations).